Without putting a test meter on the circuits, I conclude the three electronic ballasts are "bad." What do you suggest I do to correct this problem, rather than removing and replacing my current fixtures? How should I "wire around the ballasts," as I am reading in quite a number of internet posts to influence my LED tubes to work as designed? Or, what should I do to, as you indicate, replace the ballasts with "drivers?" Thanks for your timely communications and guidance. I then replaced those LED tubes with T8 fluorescent tubes. Yesterday I decided I want to get rid of the ugly brown switches, and change these to light. They all worked beautifully until approximately one month ago, when three of the five fixtures "went dark." I replaced the LED tubes w/new tubes of the same type. There are two light switches controlling this fixture. One year ago, I removed the T8 fluorescent tubes and replaced them with LED tubes. ![]() Grounds go to every device and every switch.Howdy: Approximately two years ago, I installed five new 110v, 2-tube 4-feet long, T8 fluorescent fixtures having "electronic" ballasts, in a series line (ballasts for each of the five fixtures are wired in parallel to the line) in my residential garage. Other black that is now a neutral gets connected to the neutral on the switch (again put a piece of white electrical tape on it). Red from light 2 connected to the remote terminal of the switch. If this is your only option, then its best to have no more than two fluorescent lights on one switch in order to save energy. If you can, put a piece of white tape on this wire to indicate that it is not a hot or switched leg.īlack from light 2 that is not connected to any lights but the hot from the panel. Neutral from light 1 gets connected to this light’s neutral and then the remaining black wire to switch 2. Red: Does not get connected to anything in this box but the red coming from switch 2. It does not get connected to any light.īlack 2 from light location 1 that is connected to the load on switch 1 and to the light at light 1 gets connected to the hot at this light and this is where this wire ends. Your new light fixture will have instructions and diagrams on exactly how to attach your particular fixture. Note that there are as many Neutral wires as there are light points. From this, several Neutral wires are connected to the different lamps. Neutral from panel to neutral ran to switch 1, neutral to light and white to light location 2.īlack 1 from light location 1 that is connected to panel’s hot send directly to one of the black wires to switch 2. Tuck the wires into the ceiling box as much as possible, and attach the light fixture to the box using either the two screws or the long tube and nut that fits in the mounting bracket. The stages of connection The Neutral (blue) wire is directly connected to a Wago in the junction box. It does not get connected to anything in between short of making it a continuous wire between the two switches. This is just going to get spliced at each light location to carry it from one switch to the other. The hot wire from the cord is connected directly to the black wire on the switch and the neutral is spliced to the neutral contact on each bulb sockets. ![]() ![]() This diagram can be used to rewire an old push-button lamp with a new switch replacement. Red from switch 1 to red to light location 2 (just straight splice–no connection to lights). Here a 2-way push-button switch is wired to a lamp with 2 bulbs. This does not get connected to lights and just will feed hot to both switch locations.īlack 2 from switch 1 to hot for lights and 2nd black to light location 2. Light closest to additional neutral (Light 1):īlack from panel to Black 1 to switch 1 and 1st black to light location 2. Switch Location with additional wire for neutral (switch 1): You are going to have to get a neutral to one of those two switch locations in order to do that.
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